May 16, 2015

Analysis, part 3 - Yoke and Zipper Trim

The third major feature of these uniforms was the ⅜" trim seen on the around the vest's quilted yoke (at the bottom, around the neckline and armholes, and on the upper zipper trim), which was wool gabardine (same as the vest body and pants), dyed to match the gray wool elastique/cavalry twill of the yoke, and cut on the bias - essentially custom-made bias tape. 

This bias trim apparently reacted quite differently under different lightings and shone quite differently when shot by different cameras - much more than one might expect.

For instance, the wool gabardine trim is practically indistinguishable from the elastique/cavalry twill yoke fabric under some television lighting/cinematography, but it's noticeably different when shot with fancy movie lights and cameras and viewed in HD:

DS9, 6x19 "In the Pale Moonlight"
First Contact

The trim effect can also be observed on the "captain jackets," admiral jackets, and duty jumpsuits of the era. 


Another trait the "captain vest" shared with its "captain jacket" counterpart was the ⅜" zipper trim that effectively obscured the zipper and hook-and-eye closure. 

A notable difference, however, is that the vest's zipper trim was in two pieces: black for the body portion, and gray for the yoke portion (similar in style to the "Sisko variant" jacket). 

DS9/NEM "captain jacket" zipper trim
DS9/NEM "captain vest" zipper trim



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