NOTE: Unlike the jumpsuits of the era, which were numerous and underwent considerable experimentation and evolution of the years, and the "captain jackets," which were also numerous and gradually perfected over time, the vest was seen relatively few times and only on three characters, so even extensive research is, by comparison, somewhat limited.
Additionally, even the small number of screen-used vests often possessed somewhat "conflicting" details, and unlike the jackets and jumpsuits, the vest doesn't seem to have ever gotten a "final treatment" in consistency, coordination, and attention to detail (such as the other garments did by Nemesis), so our conclusions will be based both on our observations of the screen-used and on the stylistic refinements to the jackets and jumpsuits seen in Nemesis.
This garment contained a plethora of details in its construction that made it so unique, and many of its defining characteristics it shared with its "captain jacket" counterpart.
First, and most notably, was the quilted yoke.
Unlike previous Starfleet vests seen in Star Trek, the DS9/NEM-era "captain vest" featured a gray, quilted yoke that echoed and complemented the design of the jackets and jumpsuits of the era - and looked pretty awesome:
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| The Sisko thinks Kirk needs to learn how to cook. |
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| DS9, 6x2 "Rocks and Shoals" |
The front yoke, at its center from top to bottom, appeared to be an equivalent depth to that of the corresponding "captain jacket."
Also, the distance from the bottom to the top of the zipper trim of the vest appeared to be the same as the distance from the bottom to the yoke line of the jacket.
In other words:
1 - The vest's yoke (at the center front) appeared to be the same depth as the jacket's yoke.
2 - The vest and jacket appeared to have the same length zipper + hook-and-eye closure.
Although the bottom of the yoke was even all around the vest, it (subjectively) appeared to extend quite deeply in the back:
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| First Contact |
The yoke was quilted vertically in increments of ¾" - in other words, the quilt lines were all ¾" apart and parallel.
The real construction detail of this uniform, though, was in the relationship between the quilting/topstitching and the rest of the upper garment, and its precise alignments in that regard made it a masterpiece of coordinated detail.
Everything was determined with the quilt lines in mind, as well as constructed and/or adjusted in increments of quilt lines or half quilt-lines (¾" or ⅜", respectively).
The edge of the neck opening, for instance, fell exactly on a quilt line or mid-quilt line at the shoulder seam (with the ⅜" neckline trim meeting the shoulder seam on the next quilt line or mid-quilt line).
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| Mid-quilt line |
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| Quilt line |
Likewise, the neckline pivoted via a miter on a quilt line:
And the armhole landed on either a quilt line or mid-quilt line, with the inner edge of the ⅜" armhole trim landing on the adjacent quilt line or mid-quilt line:
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Last but certainly not least in regard to the quilting, the quilt lines on the front and back yokes met their counterparts at the shoulder seam and aligned perfectly:
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